Managing Your Pond
Successful pond management requires more than just stocking fish. It is also important to maintain the proper environmental conditions, to monitor fish harvest and growth, check for successful fish reproduction, and to keep out unwanted fish. This is the science of fish management, the solid basis for ensuring good fishing.
How to Test Your Pond
Diagnosing Your Pond's Problems
Managing the Harvest
Correcting Muddy Ponds
Fertilizing Your Pond
Preventing Fish Kills
Aquatic Weed Control
Guidelines for Obtaining and Using Grass Carp to Control Aquatic Vegetation
Determining where Grass Carp Stocking Permits are Not Required
Obtaining Triploid Grass Carp for Stocking
Triploid Grass Carp Stocking Guidelines
Correcting Poor Fishing
Installing Fish Attractors
Feeding Your Fish
How to Test Your Pond
The best way to tell how well your fish are doing is to go fishing. By catching fish, you can check on how well your fish are growing, how well your fish are reproducing, or whether unwanted fish are now in the pond.
You should fish your pond frequently, not only to learn how well your pond is producing, but also to harvest the crop of older, larger fish before they succumb to natural mortality. Most Indiana ponds are capable of producing many big bluegill. These fish should be harvested to reduce competition for food among the remaining fish. Bluegill fishing can begin within one year following stocking.
Keep a record of the fish you harvest from your pond. This will aid you in determining whether additional management is needed. Record the kind and size of fish you catch. Then, periodically review your catch records. Ask yourself these questions:
- Is the average size of bluegill declining?
- Is the largest size of bluegill you catch getting smaller?
- Do you catch fewer big fish per hour or more little fish per hour?
- Are bass more difficult to catch?
- Are crappie, common carp or other non-stocked fish showing up in the catch?
Answers to these questions can form a "common sense" approach to fish management in your pond.
You may also wish to purchase a minnow seine, about 12 feet long and four feet deep. By dragging the seine along some shallow, shoreline areas, you can sample your fish population. Seining is especially effective in catching small bass and will aid you in determining how successfully the bass are reproducing.
Another effective method of catching fish is using wire-mesh cylindrical traps. A wire funnel should be attached to one end of the trap while the other end is closed. These traps work best at catching bluegill and redear. By placing one or two traps at various locations and depths throughout your pond for 24 to 48 hours, you can usually catch enough fish to judge their size range.
Once you have examined your fishing records and the seine or trap catches, you can judge how "balanced" the fish community is and whether any problems exist.
Diagnosing Your Pond's Problems
There are three basic reasons why your pond may not produce the quality of fishing you want: your pond may contain the wrong kind of fish, the wrong size of fish, or the wrong number of fish.
Remember, many kinds of fish found in Indiana lakes and streams are not suited for ponds. Corrective fish management to eliminate undesirable fish usually focuses on completely draining the pond or chemically eradicating all fish in ponds that cannot be drained.
Most pond owners who are not satisfied with the size of bluegill usually complain of catching only "little ones," mainly in the three to five inch range, and seldom any bluegill larger than six to seven inches. By far, this is the most common problem in Indiana ponds. It usually means too much of the pond's standing crop (fish population) is tied up in overcrowded, slow-growing bluegill. Corrective management of this problem centers on removing many of the small bluegill by seining, trapping or fishing and reducing bass harvest to allow the predator (bass) population to increase.
Occasionally, fish pond owners complain about catching only small bass and that no "hawg-bass" are present in their pond. These problems result either from overharvest of bass before they grow to large size or from inadequate forage to sustain good bass growth. If your bass grow at normal rates, merely reducing the number you harvest should allow the remaining bass to grow big. If the bass are growing slowly, simply harvesting more small bass should thin their numbers so those left in the pond grow faster.
Aligned closely with the problem of having the wrong size of fish in your pond is the problem of having the wrong number of fish. Too many fish usually means not enough food is available for each fish to grow at a normal rate. Consequently, only small fish are present. And of course, too many little fish means not enough big fish. The same corrective fish management techniques that address the problem of having the wrong size fish will also correct the problem of having too many fish.
Throughout this discussion of testing and diagnosing your pond's fish problems, one common symptom related to each problem is fish growth. How rapidly fish grow is the best indicator of how well-balanced your fish population is. If your fish grow rapidly, chances are that they are not too numerous and overcrowded. Therefore, if you know the age and growth rate of fish in your pond, you will be more able to diagnose and correct problems.
Managing the Harvest
Biologists and pond fishermen commonly talk about "pond balance" or "population balance." They are simply talking about the relationship between the abundance of predators (largemouth bass) and the abundance of prey (bluegill). When bluegill overpopulate and become slow-growing, the pond is said to be "out of balance." In a "balanced pond," bass remain abundant enough to prevent overpopulation of bluegill.
A balanced pond fishery can be established with the initial stocking. Maintaining that balance requires the pond owner to manage the harvest. This is usually the most difficult part of pond management. After the cost and effort of pond construction and fish stocking, the owner is understandably anxious to begin reaping the initial fishing benefits. Too often this leads to bass overharvest within the first two years.
When too many bass are removed, bluegill are free to overpopulate. The excessive number of small bluegill that survive in the absence of adequate bass predation quickly outstrip their own food supply. The result is a horde of small, very slow growing bluegill and not much else. This is an extremely common occurrence in ponds. To correct this situation, it is usually necessary to renovate the pond completely and start over with a balanced re-stocking. However, this can all be prevented by conservatively managing the bass harvest.
Channel catfish and bluegill can be harvested as soon as they reach a desirable size. However, no bass should be removed during the first two years after stocking. This doesn't mean you shouldn't catch bass. With gentle handling, you can enjoy many hours of catching and releasing these fish with virtually no harm to them. Bass will normally spawn for the first time during their second spring in a new pond. If bass harvest has been prohibited up to this point, the pond should still contain 60 to 80 percent of the bass originally stocked. A new and sizable generation of bass will be produced to maintain the fishery balance as well as to provide enjoyable bass fishing. The bass originally stocked have to provide most of the bass fishing for the first five years. It takes two seasons to grow them to maturity and it will be three more years before their first progeny reach sizes of 10 to 12 inches. If bass harvest is prohibited during the first two years and carefully managed thereafter, your pond can provide many years of quality fishing.
Although there are no hard and fast rules for managing bass harvest, the key is to practice a conservative harvest. One way is with a minimum size limit of 14 inches. Another helpful guideline is to remove no more than 20 to 25 bass per surface acre each year (after the first two years). This approach emphasizes the quality rather than the quantity of pond fishing. The dividends are large, spunky bluegill, plenty of bass fishing action including some "lunkers," and an occasional bass for the frying pan. But perhaps the greatest dividend of all is to see your management efforts translated into good fishing year after year.
When catching and releasing largemouth bass, there are a few simple rules to follow that improve the chances of the bass surviving. These are:
- Don't overplay the bass. Retrieve and release it quickly.
- Don't put it on a stringer and then decide to let it go.
- Carefully remove hooks so excessive bleeding doesn't start.
- If the hook cannot be removed, cut the hook or line and release the fish.
- Keep the bass out of sunlight and in the water.
Correcting Muddy Ponds
A muddy pond does not provide good habitat for fish. Muddy water can adversely affect fish reproduction. Mud also prevents sunlight from penetrating the water and reduces microscopic plant (phytoplankton) growth. Phytoplankton release oxygen into the water during photosynthesis for fish to breathe. Phytoplankton also serve as the first link in the pond's food chain. If your pond is muddy much of the time, look for the cause of the problem and try to correct it. Some common causes of muddy ponds include: 1) soil erosion due to poor land management practices in the watershed, 2) an abundance of bottom feeding fish such as common carp or bullheads, 3) wave action along an unprotected shore, 4) livestock trampling the pond banks, and 5) suspended clay particles. Maintain a buffer strip of terrestrial vegetation around the pond to hold the soil and reduce silt and nutrient inputs.
To reduce bank erosion caused by wave action, you may wish to place large rocks or gravel along the shore. Allowing some aquatic vegetation, such as cattails and lilies, to grow in areas where wave action is greatest can also reduce bank erosion.
If muddy water is caused by common carp or bullheads, complete pond draining or chemical eradication may be warranted. Livestock should be kept out of ponds.
Muddy water caused by suspended clay particles can sometimes be corrected by spreading broken bales of high quality hay around the shoreline. As the hay decays, a weak acid is formed which causes clay particles to settle. Approximately two bales of hay per surface acre should clear the water.
Fertilizing Your Pond
Pond fertilization is based on the notion that the addition of nutrients to the water will increase the production of plankton (microscopic plants and animals). This increase in the amount of fish food then results in increased fish production (pounds of fish per acre).
While fertilization may increase fish production and help control aquatic vegetation due to water clouding caused by dense plankton blooms, the disadvantages of fertilization usually outweigh the advantages.
Fertilization can promote aquatic vegetation growth rather than plankton. Increases in aquatic vegetation can increase chances of summer and winter fish kills as the vegetation decays. Plankton blooms can also occur, damaging the appearance of your pond by making it a soupy, green color. Once fertilization is started, it must become a permanent part of your management program or your pond's carrying capacity is reduced, often resulting in over-crowded, slow-growing fish. Because of these many disadvantages of fertilization, it is not recommended that you initiate a fertilization program.
Preventing Fish Kills
The most common cause of fish kills in Indiana ponds is suffocation. Suffocation occurs when aquatic plants do not produce enough oxygen for fish to breathe. This may occur during heavy snow and ice cover in winter, during rapid plant die-offs after a cold rain or several days of cloud cover, or following aquatic plant die-offs from herbicide applications. Once fish suffocation starts, it is too late to stop it. Fish kills in general can be best prevented by properly controlling nutrient inputs and overabundant aquatic vegetation.
Winter kills can be prevented by removing snow from the pond. Three inches of ice covered by five inches of snow will shut out 99% of the incoming sunlight. To prevent or reduce the severity of winter kills, remove snow from at least 50% of the pond surface. Drilling holes in the ice will not help.
Additional action that can be taken to prevent winterkills includes artificially aerating and circulating the water either by motor-driven air compressors or wind driven baffles. When using an air compressor system, do not allow the air stone (diffuser) to lie on the bottom. This will usually stir up organic materials and result in more oxygen consumption as the materials decay. Suspend the diffuser at least two feet off the bottom.
Summer-kills can be prevented by making sure no fertilizer, herbicides, insecticides or organic run-off (silage, manure) enter the pond. Chemically treat aquatic vegetation early in the growing season according to the label and avoid treatments in late July and August. Avoid treating large amounts of aquatic vegetation throughout the pond by treating one area at a time.
Aquatic Weed Control
Aquatic plants are essential members of the pond community. They are beneficial to fish and wildlife. Rooted plants provide living areas for fish and fish food organisms such as aquatic insects. Certain plants offer shade to fish from bright sunlight and provide natural fish attractors to larger fish. Some kinds of aquatic vegetation provide food and cover for waterfowl and various mammals. Most types of aquatic vegetation never cause problems in ponds. Control is not recommended if the vegetation covers less than 20-25% of your pond's surface area. This level of aquatic vegetation is generally accepted as optimal for sport fish populations and the ecology of the pond.
When aquatic vegetation becomes overabundant (covering more than 20-25% of the pond), it can cause problems. Excessive amounts of aquatic vegetation detracts from the pond's appearance and makes swimming, boating and fishing difficult. Aquatic vegetation also uses nutrients that could go into producing fish food organisms. Excessive aquatic vegetation offers unneeded protection to small fish from predators and often results in panfish overpopulation. On cloudy, hot summer days or under ice cover, excessive vegetation can lead to fish kills by using up the available oxygen.
There are several ways to control aquatic vegetation in ponds. Hand pulling, cutting or raking aquatic vegetation may be the simplest and least expensive. Placing permeable filter fabric on the bottom can control vegetation in specific areas of the pond. Some Indiana pond owners control vegetation with registered and approved aquatic herbicides. Another alternative may be biological control (see section on Grass Carp).
The first step in chemically controlling aquatic vegetation is to correctly identify the problem plants. There are four basic types of vegetation found in ponds: emergent plants, submergent plants, floating plants and algae. Your choice of herbicide will depend on the types of problem plants you want to control.
Filamentous algae is perhaps the most common vegetation problem in Indiana ponds. It is a stringy, hair-like plant (sometimes mistakenly called "moss") that can completely cover a pond's surface. Algae can be difficult to control and may require several treatments.
If you are unable to correctly identify your problem plants, enclose a damp sample within a plastic bag and mail them to your District Fisheries Biologist (see map and list to locate your fisheries biologist).
After your problem vegetation has been identified, the next step is to determine the acreage and water volume of the area to be treated. To prevent killing too much vegetation, you may wish to treat the pond in sections. In this case you will need to calculate the area and the volume of only the section you want to treat. (see section on Partial Pond treatment, Figure 2)
Now you are ready to select an appropriate aquatic herbicide that's registered and approved by the EPA and the Indiana State Chemist's Office. Carefully read the entire label to ensure the herbicide will do the job in the manner you expect. Especially note the precautionary statements and directions before using the product. Be sure to wear any safety equipment such as gloves or eye protectors as stated on the product label.
The method(s) of herbicide application is dictated by the formulation and the product label. Liquids are usually sprayed from shore or a boat.
Some liquids can also be injected from a boat mounted tank into the prop wash of an outboard motor with a simple device called a boat bailer (See diagram at right). If the vegetation is very thick, spraying may be easier than bailing. Granular herbicides can be broadcast by hand or hand held spreaders. Powders might be dissolved in water and sprayed or poured along the shoreline as a paste or slurry.
Licensed and certified commercial aquatic pesticide applicators are available to treat pond vegetation for a fee. A list of licensed commercial applicators is available from your District Fisheries Biologist.
Do not apply aquatic herbicides to your pond on rainy or cloudy days or if the weather forecast calls for a period of rainy or cloudy days or else you may cause a fish kill.
Important points to remember when treating aquatic vegetation are:
- Identify the problem plant and select the appropriate herbicide.
- Use only registered, approved herbicides.
- Carefully read and follow all herbicide label directions.
- Distribute the herbicide evenly, covering all areas in the treatment zone.
- Do not over treat or apply the herbicide to an area larger than needed.
- Treat submergent vegetation and algae early in the growing season.
- Properly dispose of empty containers and unused herbicide.
Example: Plants are growing from the shoreline to a depth of 10 feet around the entire pond. An easy way to calculate the area (acres) and/or volume (acre feet) to be treated is to divide the pond into five treatment zones (See open water figure below).
| Treatment Zone | Length (in feet) | Width (in feet) | Area (in acres) | Average Depth (in feet) | Volume (ac. ft.) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 210 | 60 | 0.29 | 4 | 1016 |
| 2 | 150 | 60 | 0.21 | 4 | 0.83 |
| 3 | 90 | 60 | 0.12 | 4 | 0.49 |
| 4 | 100 | 75 | 0.1 | 3 | 0.52 |
| 5 | 85 | 60 | 0.12 | 4 | 0.47 |
Before you apply the chemical to a treatment zone, you need to know the area (acres). To determine the area, measure the length and width in feet. Multiply the length by the width and divide by 43,560 (the number of square feet in one acre). Here is the formula:
Take the Length (in feet), multiply the Width (in feet) and divide by 43,560 square feet/acre = Area in acres.
You may also need to know the volume (acre feet) of the treatment zone. To calculate the volume in the treatment zone, determine the average depth in feet and multiply the average depth times the acres (Figure 3). Here is the formula:
Acres of treatment zone X Average depth (feet) of treatment zone = Volume in acre feet.
The label for the chemical you are using will list the amount of product to apply per acre or acre foot.
Example: A pond measuring 175 feet by 135 feet, with an average depth of 4 feet, will hold 2 acre feet of water.
To find area:
- Multiply 175' x 135' = 23,625 square feet
- 43,560 sq. ft. = 1 acre
Therefore: 23,625.00 divided by 43,560 = .54 surface acres
To find average depth:
- Add depth readings
- 0+2+4+6+8+6+4+2 = 32 feet
- Number of readings, incl. 0 for shoreline = 8
- Divide: 32 by 8 = 4 ft. average depth
- To find capacity of pond: Multiply .5 surface acres X 4 ft. average depth = 2 acre ft.
(Below is a pond area estimator chart)
Guidelines for Obtaining and Using Grass Carp to Control Aquatic Vegetation
Many pond owners are interested in grass carp because they are an alternative to chemical and physical means of aquatic vegetation control. They were first introduced into the U.S. in 1963 by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and were released in Alabama and Arkansas waters for aquatic vegetation control. Today, grass carp can be found in most states between the Appalachians and Rocky Mountains. Rivers are the preferred habitat, although grass carp adapt well to standing bodies of water.
The grass carp is a plant-eating fish that is native to China and Russia. It can grow up to 60 pounds and live 15-20 years. Although it is a relative of the common carp, it neither acts nor looks like the common carp. The grass carp is occasionally caught on hook and line, and some anglers think it tastes better than the common carp.
Grass carp grow rapidly and prefer to feed on rooted vegetation, although after five years of age, both their growth rate and their effectiveness at controlling aquatic plants slow considerably.
Grass carp are able to eat vegetation because of a modification to the back portion of the gill that has taken the form of a tooth-like structure. These pharyngeal teeth are used to grind vegetation so that it can be swallowed and digested.
A major breakthrough came in the 1980s with the development of techniques to produce sterile grass carp, incapable of reproducing. Known as "triploids," these fish are genetically altered but eat plants as effectively as fertile "diploid" grass carp. This advance greatly reduces the threat of uncontrolled grass carp reproduction and spread.
Many agencies in the United States, both federal and state, began investigating the use of biological methods for control of aquatic vegetation in the 1970s. Based on the results of that research, the reproductively sterile (triploid) grass carp was selected as the biological method that will best control some types of aquatic vegetation in most Indiana ponds with the least ecological risk to aquatic environments.
Determining where Grass Carp Stocking Permits are Not Required
The Department of Natural Resources allows triploid grass carp stocking, without a stocking permit, only in private ponds and lakes. A stocking permit is not required if a pond or lake meets the following criteria:
1. The land surrounding the lake is wholly in private ownership. No portion of the land is owned by a public entity, including a public access site, city park or public road crossing.
2. A state fishing license is not required to fish the lake and state fishing regulations do not apply to fish caught from the lake.
3. The Department of Natural Resources has never stocked fish into the lake.
If your pond or lake does not meet these criteria or you are in doubt request a stocking permit application from the Fisheries Section, Division of Fish and Wildlife, 402 W. Washington Street, Room W273, Indianapolis, IN 46204. Send the completed stocking permit application along with a $3 processing fee back to the same address. State fisheries personnel will determine if a permit is needed and if so, under what conditions grass carp may or may not be stocked.
The Division of Fish and Wildlife will not issue permits for stocking triploid grass carp into any natural body of water including glacial lakes, slough potholes, bottomland lakes, streams, rivers, water areas known to harbor rare, threatened or endangered animals, or plants on the official national or state listing, any state nature preserve, or any wetland.
Obtaining Triploid Grass Carp for Stocking
Triploid grass carp may only be purchased from holders of an Indiana aquaculture permit. A list of permit holders is available from the Division of Fish and Wildlife and district fisheries offices. Pond owners are not allowed to pick up grass carp and stock their own ponds. The aquaculture permit holder must deliver and stock the fish, and present the purchaser with a bill of sale and copy of triploid certification. It is the responsibility of the purchaser to retain these documents for at least two years.
Triploid Grass Carp Stocking Guidelines
Grass carp are not a cure-all for aquatic vegetation control. Excess vegetation is a result of nutrient buildup in ponds, and the source of these nutrients will have to be controlled for best long-term results. As grass carp consume aquatic vegetation, the water is likely to become more turbid and less desirable plants or algae may become dominant in the pond. Grass carp may also seriously affect sport fish populations if they are overstocked. Vegetation control with grass carp is extremely variable and desired results are difficult to obtain and are not guaranteed.
Based on research done by Indiana, the following general guidelines offer the best chance for successful use of grass carp in most Indiana ponds and lakes.
1. It sometimes takes years to see changes in aquatic vegetation abundance following grass carp stockings. Monitoring of changes in aquatic vegetation following stocking should be done each year.
2. If less than 20 percent of your pond is covered by aquatic vegetation, stocking grass carp is not recommended. Use chemical or mechanical spot treatments as necessary. This level of aquatic vegetation is generally accepted as optimal for sport fish populations and the ecology of the pond.
3. All grass carp stocking recommendations are based on an accurate determination of the acres of aquatic vegetation covering the pond's surface plus the areas covered by submerged vegetation as far as you can see into the water. The best way to do this is to physically measure and calculate the square feet of vegetation covering your pond. Divide the number of square feet by 43,560 to determine acres of aquatic vegetation. An alternative method is to determine the entire surface area of the pond in acres, then estimate the percent of aquatic plant coverage from a vantage point where you can see the entire pond. Take the surface area of your pond times the percent of plant coverage to determine acres of aquatic vegetation.
4. Stocking rates are based on the use of 8-12 inch long triploid grass carp. When using fish less than eight inches long, increase the stocking rate by 40 percent, except in ponds that do not contain largemouth bass. In these ponds, stock at standard rates. For fish larger than 12 inches, decrease the stocking rate by 30 percent.
5. If your objective is to totally eliminate aquatic vegetation, stock 30 grass carp per acre of vegetation. If significant vegetation reduction has not occurred by the end of the third summer, stock an additional 15 fish per acre of vegetation. Mechanical and chemical methods can be used for initial control, however, be careful not to kill the grass carp. Keep in mind that total elimination of aquatic vegetation will seriously affect sport fish populations and normal pond ecology.
6. The recommended objective is to maintain some vegetation in your pond. Reducing the grass carp stocking rate to 15 per acre of vegetation generally offers the best chance of meeting this objective. If no improvement in vegetation coverage has occurred after four summers, stock an additional 7 grass carp per acre of vegetation. These stocking rates were developed in the absence of any supplemental chemical or mechanical vegetation control measures. Any interim measures taken should be very selective and cover only small areas, otherwise elimination of all vegetation may occur. Results of using this approach for vegetation control will be highly variable. No two ponds will react the same way. You will have to refine your vegetation management strategies over the years on an individual basis. Numbers of 8-12 inch triploid grass carp needed for various acres of aquatic vegetation at the two standard stocking rates.
Acres of Aquatic Vegetation
| Stocking Rate | 1/4 | 1/2 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15/Acre | 4 | 8 | 15 | 30 | 45 | 60 | 75 |
| 30/Acre | 8 | 15 | 30 | 60 | 90 | 120 | 150 |
7. Grass carp will not control cattails, spatterdock (yellow water lily) or filamentous algae (pond moss) without first eliminating most other plants in the pond. If these plants are your problem and elimination of all plants is acceptable, use the method described in number 5, otherwise, spot treatments by chemical or mechanical methods are recommended.
8. Stocking grass carp in a lake that normally has high discharges is not recommended. In this situation, grass carp will leave the lake. Fish barriers should not be used unless the dam and spillway have been designed to account for the reduced spillway efficiency and blockage that will occur during high flows. A professional engineer should be consulted to evaluate barrier impact on dam safety if a fish barrier is considered.
Correcting Poor Fishing
If your pond contains the wrong kind of fish (carp, bullheads, unwanted sunfish) or is dominated by over-crowded, slow-growing bluegills, you should consider having the fish eradicated. Total fish eradication is a severe measure but often it is the only way to improve fishing.
Fish can be eradicated by completely draining the pond or by applying a chemical fish toxicant. Draining, of course, is the least expensive if your pond was properly constructed so that it can be drained. The pond should be drained during fall and refilled with spring run-off.
If you cannot completely drain the pond, then a fish toxicant may be used. Because this fish toxicant is classified as a restricted use pesticide by the U.S. EPA, only pesticide applicators certified and licensed with the Office of Indiana State Chemist in pest control may use this product. According to the Office of Indiana State Chemist, a person holding a private applicator's permit may purchase and apply this restricted use pesticide, but only to their privately owned pond. A person may not use this product in a pond which empties into a public waterway without holding a commercial pesticide applicator license in Category 5 (Aquatic Pest Control). Should there be a question regarding whether or not your pond empties into a public waterway, you may contact a District Fisheries Biologist to discuss your situation. You may also contact the Office of Indiana State Chemist at (317) 494-1594 or a District Fisheries Biologist to secure the names of licensed aquatic pest control businesses.
Installing Fish Attractors
If your pond contains very little fish cover, you may wish to add cover by providing artificial fish attractors. Not only do fish attractors provide cover, they also provide a substrate for aquatic insects, and they concentrate fish for better fishing.
Brush piles are the most common type of fish attractor. Any type of woody brush, such as branches or discarded Christmas trees, can be anchored together in a pile. Hardwoods resist decay longer than softwoods and are recommended. Another type of fish attractor is the stake-bed, constructed from discarded lumber slats or old boards.
Fish attractors can be constructed on the ice during winter and allowed to sink. The attractors should be heavily weighted to prevent floating. Cable or nylon rope works best to secure the materials.
Feeding Your Fish
"Should I feed my fish?" is a question often asked by pond owners. In most cases, the answer is "no" if you're managing your pond for bluegill and bass. While feeding fish may be entertaining, it is not recommended for most pond owners.
The natural fertility of ponds is usually sufficient for providing enough food organisms for normal fish growth. Supplemental feeding costs money and takes time. Fish must first learn to eat commercial pellets and for optimum learning, feed should be offered daily in the same places. Feeding "just when you feel like it" is a waste of time and money. Many fish never learn to take artificial feed and feed that isn't consumed falls to the bottom to decompose.
If the pond owner wishes to supplementally feed fish, it should only be done to provide a small boost to fish growth in an already-balanced pond. Trying to make "slab" bluegills out of thousands of five-inchers by artificial feeding does not always work.
A bluegill needs to eat 2 percent of its body weight per day for maintenance of good health and growth. And remember, the average standing crop of bluegills in Indiana ponds is 224 pounds per acre. This means that pond owners would have to add about five pounds of feed per acre per day to get improvements in growth.
One situation where supplemental fish feeding is recommended is for small ponds used to produce harvestable-size channel catfish.
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